Raw Edge Appliqué

Raw edge appliqué could also be called Fearless Applique. It is an infinitely versatile appliqué technique, and by its nature, easier to create than traditional appliqué methods. The look can be funky or retro, have a folk art or fashion flair. In fact, raw edge appliqué is everywhere at retail right now – on hats and hoodies, sweatshirts and jean jackets. Unlike some fashion trends, this is one that you can easily duplicate. You can even use it to cover up some embroidery that may not have come out as well as you would have liked.

Designs Selection and Creation
This technique can be created using Redwork designs and other outline files. If you are handy with editing, you can isolate only the outline portion of some of your favorite designs. Even digitizing for raw edge appliqué is easy, because you are usually just making an outline in some type of running stitch.

If you are editing or digitizing your raw edge design, it is helpful to copy the outline and paste it on top of the original outline in a different color. In this way, the machine will stop after the initial outline is stitched on the host fabric and the fabric swatch can be laid down to cover the outline. If you are working with a single outline, you can simply restart the machine after stitching the target to apply the outline on top of the appliqué fabric.

The bean stitch is a type of triple ply running stitch that is well-suited for creation of raw edge appliqué. Any double or triple running stitch can be used to secure the appliqué fabric. Satin stitch details can be added, but the border stitch used for raw edge appliqué looks best in a running stitch rather than a satin stitch.

Fabric Selection and Preparation
Most fabrics can be used for raw edge appliqué. Cotton broadcloth, denim, fleece, flannel, felt and faux suede are all good choices. Consider using the wrong side of your selected fabric for a more distressed look. This is particularly effective when working with prints or fleece. Also consider the scale of the print in relation to the design.

There is no need to apply a fusible web or other backing to the reverse side of the appliqué fabric as we do when performing traditional appliqué. In fact, it is undesirable to do so. It’s desirable for woven fabrics used as raw edge appliqués to fray to add to the vintage or distressed effect.

Host Fabrics
The appliqué fabric should be compatible with the host fabric. For example, don’t use a flashy dry-clean-only fabric as an appliqué on a washable garment unless you want to be locked in to dry cleaning the garment.

Raw edge appliqué is a great technique for towels, so of course you want to use fabrics that will wash and wear well during repeated washing. On the towel pictured here, we used a wool-blend felt, which looks even better after successive laundering.

Also consider the respective weights of the two fabrics. The host fabric should be able to easily support the appliqué fabric without damage to the host fabric, as could happen when applying a heavyweight fabric to a very lightweight fabric.

Application at Machine
As previously mentioned, it is helpful to first stitch the outline as a target onto the host fabric. This helps assure that the appliqué fabric completely covers the appliqué area. Lay a piece of fabric over the target outline and restart the machine to stitch the outline on top of the appliqué fabric.

Trimming and Finishing Techniques
You should experiment with your fabric to determine the best amount of fabric to leave outside the stitching line. Leave a wider border if you are uncertain because you can always trim it later. This is most important on a fabric that frays. You may not know the best width for the border until after you have laundered a specific fabric. For example, flannel may look best trimmed with a wider border than a cotton print blend.

It is readily apparent how much you should leave for your specific design on a non-fraying fabric such as felt or faux suede. These are usually trimmed fairly close for a more tailored appearance.

Adding Buttons and Findings
Look at your design to determine if you can add character with details like button eyes, felt tongues or other dimensional touches. This technique readily lends itself to the addition of fun findings.


1. Raw Edge Appliqué Intro


2. Select Fabric


3. Cotton Print Fabric